DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Sink Console
You have probably noticed by now that I am a little addicted to Pottery Barn. I know I’m hardly unique in that! When it came time to re-do our powder room, I fell head over heels for their Newport Sink Console. However, it was not in our budget (it actually was double the cost of the entire project budget for the Powder Room). Cue the DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Sink Console! After our success in building our DIY Kitchen Island, I knew we had this!
First, I went looking for inspiration. I came across these awesome tutorials by DIY Diva and Ana White. They are two great resources for detailed step by step plans with measurements for the vanity in two sizes. Our dimensions are a little strange to fit the existing granite countertop, but they are closest to the dimensions of the DIY Diva version. However, the methods we used to build the vanity were more similar to the Ana White version. We modified it a bit to make it easier for us to build, and I’m about to share those modifications with you! I will also share how I achieved the stain later on in the post.
We started by ordering four of the Marshall Island Legs from Osborne Wood. I have raved about this company in the past, since we also used their products for the DIY Kitchen Island. The Marshall Island Legs were also of excellent quality, and I absolutely love them.
We began by constructing the side panels. Due to a memory card error, the photos from those steps are missing. I figured it out after we had already joined the two side panels with the back panel. However, I think I can work backwards from this photo to describe what we did. We cut a piece of cabinet grade plywood down to the size to create the side panel (your measurements will probably vary- as I said, we were working with the strange granite dimensions.). We glued and finish-nailed a piece of poplar trim to both the top and the bottom of the panel. The bottom piece of trim was offset past the bottom of the plywood panel to create a space to inset the plywood bottom. We made pocket screw holes with our Kreg K5 Pocket-Hole Jig and we used pocket hole screws to secure the panels to the legs. We chose to have the trim at the top and bottom of the panel flush with the front of the legs. We felt it gave more cohesion to the design, as the trim is the same width as the legs, and t evenly framed.
To attach the two side panels, we screwed a nailer to each leg at the depth of the plywood. Then, we cut the plywood to size for the back panel and nailed it to the nailers. The vanity was starting to take shape!
We created the two front supports using poplar 1x4s and creating pocket holes with the kreg jig. We installed it to sit flush with the front of the vanity.
We cut the plywood panel for the bottom support with the corners notched out to match the legs. We attached it to the front and back of the vanity with pocket screws, and to the bottom of the plywood panels on the sides. the trim on the front of the side panel covered up the edge of the plywood bottom perfectly. Here’s a tip on this step that we wished we had followed- use the bottom piece as a template for your shelf. Your shelf will need the same notches cut in the corners, so it will save you some time later on! We made our shelf out of a stain grade wood panel and attached it just before installation using pocket holes on the bottom.
(You will want one wider than 12″- this was for another project, but they have various sizes at Lowes)
So, in another blogger epic fail, I was not home when Mack made the doors. However, they are inset and were made with the poplar trim. He created a frame of poplar trim, with a butt jointed frame (not mitered)- the pieces are shorter on the sides and butt up against the top and bottom pieces. He attached a thin piece of plywood to the back, but you can also use a router to inset the panel into the frame evenly. That is what I would have asked him to do if I was home when he did this part of the project.
Before applying the stain I covered all of the pieces of the project in Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
. I’ve found that this really does help the wood take the stain better.
To achieve the stain for this project, I used leftover Minwax Waterbased Wood Stain White Base (tinted Slate at the paint counter) from the Kitchen Island project. You have to work extremely quickly with this stuff- or it turns into a paint-like gray finish. I immediately wiped it away after applying it, and worked in small sections.
Once I had covered the whole vanity in the gray stain (wiping it away as I went) I immediately applied a coat of Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Kona. This can sit a bit longer than the slate stain, and should. It takes much longer than the recommended minute to saturate the wood. I covered the whole vanity, waited a few minutes, then went back to where I had started and began wiping the stain away. Enough of the gray showed through to give it the rustic aged look I had been hoping for. The legs seemed to soak up the stain a bit differently, so I went ahead and did a second coat. I finished it off with finishing paste wax. It didn’t seem to work too well- so I am planning to try a different product and I will report back if I have better results.
After everything was dry, we went ahead and installed it! Our plumbing oddly comes into the side of the bathroom instead of the back- so we used the jigsaw to cut away at part of the side. I would have preferred to have it further away from the side wall, but obviously that wasn’t possible because of the plumbing. But I am happy with how it looks, and it covers up the unfinished side of the granite perfectly.
I didn’t mention above- but we attached the bottom shelf at the center of the lower block.
And there you have it! Another handmade piece in our home that I am very proud of!
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Disclaimers: This is not a sponsored post- I was not paid by any of the companies/brands in this post to use their products. However, some of the links above are Amazon affiliate links, meaning I get a small percentage if you choose to purchase the items through Amazon. This helps keep the blog running and the projects coming- for which I am ever-so-grateful!! :) I chose and recommended the products I felt were best through research and trial-and-error. This was the best process for us, but that does not mean we can guarantee you will be achieve the very same results, or that you will be happy with your results. As with all projects, we recommend that you always use proper safety equipment and proper ventilation for paint projects. You can read more about our policies here.